Walking the Mlilwane Hippo Trail

Continuing where I left off on baby steps... if you'd like to take a self-guided walk in Swaziland, possibly the easiest and most accessible option is the Hippo Trail at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary.

Easy? Well, its fairly flat most of the way varying between 699m and 764 metres in terms of altitude. Total distance is 6.3km and the circular walk is easy completed in between 2 and 3 hours.

Accessible? Mlilwane is right in the middle of Swaziland and close to the highest concentration of tourism accommodation in the country, the Ezulwini Valley. The sanctuary is open sunrise to sunset for day visitors and there is a nominal entry fee. Entry is free for WILD card holders.

The trail itself is interesting enough to keep most walkers fully occupied, either with bird or wildlife spotting, or in negotiating the track itself. There are plenty of small banks to climb or descend, roots to step over and pole bridges to balance across. In terms of difficulty I would think that most folk will manage it, although elderly walkers would need to be fairly solid on their feet and/or closely assisted. If in doubt rather walk out and back from the camp starting point, because the sections departing and returning to the camp are the easiest and flatest gradients to negotiate with fairly consistent trail surfaces.

For younger walkers the trail is a must. On my most recent outing Anita (my wife) and I were accompanied by our children Kei (8yrs), Paige (6yrs) and Paige's friend Elle (6 yrs) and they had a ball. A good break along the way is advised though.

The trail can be undertaken in a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction. I prefer anti-clockwise, heading straight out from the camp, past the display of snares collected by rangers. The trail here runs roughly parallel to the main access road, but being along the edge of "the shallows", a man-made wetland area linking the big dam with the hippo pool in the camp, it gives far greater opportunity for wildlife viewing. We saw zebra, blesbok, warthog, impala and an ostrich alongside the trail and spurwing geese, a hamerkop, egrets, herons and kingfishers in the water.

Crossing the dam wall, its worth keeping an eye open for hippo, crocodiles, a resident fish eagle and numerous other waterbirds. Stay well away from the waters edge, the crocodiles here are huge, dangerous and will not hesitate to snatch anyone silly enough to splash their feet in the water. You have been be warned !

On the far side of the dam the trail leaves the open grassveld of the Central Plains area and heads through a tall gum forest. This is a remnant forest from the farming era that predated that park's establishment. The trees provide nesting for black sparrowhawk, Crowned eagles and offer welcome shade on hot days.

Further on the trail weaves its way through tall dongas (gulleys), which are another reminder of the areas's history, having been a tin mine in the early 1900's. The tall red banks provide a stark reminder of the destructive nature of this style of erosion mining, but all is not negative, because the banks are ideal nesting sites for birds such the White-fronted Bee-eater, which is prolific in the area. Half-way down the trail a massive nesting site is passed on the right, from which, if you approach quietly a sudden explosive rush of birds will emerge, wheeling away into the sky above.

This area also provides a real insight into the difficulty of eliminating alien vegetation from disturbed areas, as it is infested with lantana, wattle, mauritius thorn and bugweed. No amount of burning, chemical control or physical bush-clearing has been successful in eliminating this scourge and the park authorities are now forced to settle on only preventing its further spread.

At the top end of the circle the trail crosses from the Mhlangeni drainage line across to the Mhlambanyatsi River, which is one of two rivers passing through the sanctuary. Visible to the north is the Nyonyane Mountain peak, otherwise known as the Rock of Execution. Along the river, the natural riverine vegetation and bubbling clear waters are alive with bird, insect and animal life. A dip in the water is a welcome relief on hot days, but ensure that this is done only in the shallow rock pools - the reed-lined river further down is crocodile territory.

Returning to the camp, the trail follows a contour above the river that offers expansive views across the plains below. We added wildebeest, nyala and kudu to our checklist, as well as plenty more zebra, impala and warthog, all of which are so relaxed that you walk past only a few metres away from them.

Back in the camp, the swimming pool, restaurant, braai and toilet facilities invite further relaxation... so why rush ?

Swaziland - baby steps

Ok, I'm planning to add some pretty on-the-edge Swazi adventures over the next few months, but lets start with some baby steps. For some this may be all it takes to break out in a sweat and get the heart beating. I'm talking about taking the decision to go out for the night for a meal somewhere other than at your place of accommodation.

This topic came to mind precisely because my seasoned travel writing acquaintaince (see previous blog) had asked this question just last night. "Is it safe to drive around here at night? You know when we were in xxxxx (neighbouring country - lets spare them the unsavory name mention) it really wasn't nice to be out at night."

Well, here's my take on travel at night, in Africa in general and in Swaziland specifically. Firstly, I prefer to travel at night. There's a lot less traffic. Statistically having an accident with another vehicle is the biggest risk you're going to face anywhere. Less traffic at night means less risk. Secondly, at night you find a lot less people loitering around. Most self-respecting petty thiefs have better things to do than hang around on the vague off-chance that you are going to climb out your car right in front of them. Thirdly, in this day and age of GPS technology and cell phone contact, there is little reason for being scared of getting lost.

Three months ago Anita, our two kids and I headed off at 16h00 destined for Ponta do Oro in Southern Mozambique. By the time we'd cleared the Mhlumeni/Goba border it was pitch black. Our mission to traverse the backroute to Ponta via Belavista and the Maputo Elephant Park raised some eyebrows at the border both with officials and some fellow travellers. We plugged a waypoint into our GPS, asked it to follow the road rather than the crows flight and off we chugged in our Landy. It was one of the most pleasant journeys I have ever had...starry skies above, a cool breeze through my open window and the odd "beep" when my Garmin had an opinion on which way to go. By 22h00 we were safely in Ponta, our first visit to magic coastal spot. Our late arrival was adjudicated as "taking a serious risk" and was a point of debate in many a conversation thereafter. For the record there is some real 4x4'ing in the last 20km of the route - so don't take a sedan down that way - but why the paranoia about travelling at night ?

I'm sold on night travel - you won't find me choking on dust, dodging pedestrians or squinting into the glare ever again - after dark in Africa the road is yours.

But we digress. Getting back to adventures in Swaziland...one of the real pleasures of independent travel is independent eating - finding interesting places with local vibe and the chance of eyeballing the locals and gauging their likely sanity. Finding these opportunities for absorbing local favour is much more likely at a public restaurant rather than a dining room - so don't be shy, get out there and explore. By all means scout some options during the day and ask for local advice, but don't get put off by the receptionist or accommodation manager who says, "oooohh, aaahh, I'd be careful travelling at night." These folk (with all due respect) have a vested interest in you eating on your hotel room account, so don't get hung up with their apparent concern for your safety. Take the gap and go for it...this corner of Africa is safer than most major cities in the developed world. Fullstop.

In general Mbabane, Manzini, the Ezulwini Valley and Malkerns all have a good range of eating options, outlying areas to a much lesser extent. If anything, Ezulwini is probably the place to target, its got far the greatest range of restaurant options and its also within easy reach of Mbabane and Manzini.

At the top end of the Ezulwini Valley, eDladleni Restaurant is a good start for traditional Swazi organically grown food, whilst just off the old Ezulwini road (MR103), The Calabash has been long accalimed as Swaziland's top restaurant. Continental European food is the feature here, Swiss, German, Austrian dishes superbly prepared. Right next door is the cavernous The Boma Restaurant at Timbali. Their pizza's are the best in Swaziland (by far) and the rest of the menu ain't bad either.

Further along the Royal Swazi Sun Valley offers eating options at four hotel-based restaurants. The Valley Blues at the Ezulwini Sun, the iLanga at the Lugogo Sun and a choice at the grand old Royal Swazi Sun between the seriously pricey, but seriously good ala carte at Planters Restaurant or endless buffet at The Terrace or options to mull over.

Fairly new, but fast establishing a reputation for itself, is the Lihawu Restaurant at the opulent Royal Villas hotel. Here it's a fusion of Afro-European dishes that characterise the menu.

Woodlands Restaurant would be the next option going south with classic old European style: waiters with white shirts and bowties, a standard and not too adventurous menu, but with dishes that are well-prepared and certainly good value for money.

The Gables shopping centre is the next big stop with lots of very diverse options. Kanimambo is all about Portuguese dishes and seafood, the Great Taipei is Chinese at its best and Quatemaines offers a mix of pub style dishes with classic steak house fare. A new addition the Bengal Tiger is a curry den, whilst breakfast and lunch visitors can chill out at Linda's Coffee Shop.

Branching off into the Mantenga Valley, further options include the awesome wooden deck at Mantenga Lodge, where the extensive menu is only rivalled by the great view of Execution Rock and the Village Cafe at Mantenga Nature Reserve. The latter often combines traditional dancing at the Swazi Cultural Village, with a cultural tour and braai style buffet dinner. This is a nice option for tour groups in particular. Just outside the reserve gates, Guava Gallery has a lunch-time bistro menu.

Across the Lusushwana River is Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. Here one of Swaziland's really unique restaurants can be found at the Hippo Haunt. An open deck looks out onto a murky pool that not only has resident hippo, but crocodile, terrapins, all sorts of waterbirds and small mammals too. Whilst I probably wouldn't drive the reserve's bumpy roads at night for the sake of their food, which is average at best, I would rate the combination of a late afternoon sundowner activity (gamedrive, horse ride, mountain bike ride or walk), with a relaxed evening in the camp surrounded by wild night sounds as a real must-do. The night exit from Mlilwane is a bit of an adventure, as the park does not allow night traffic through the main part of the reserve, so a windy, but well signposted backroute, is the only option. Add a late afternoon thundershower to soften the road surface and you'll have something to write home about.

Last but not least, I'll make mention of Malkerns, another valley branching off from the MR103, which is well cultivated and quite idyllic. Malandela's Farmhouse Restaurant is an institution here. The atmosphere will blow you away. Great views, relaxed local farmers, a cosy little pub with its history and traditions well documented on the walls and access to neighbouring the House-on-Fire performance venue are all drawcards. Despite having the country's most indifferent service, Malandela's is always busy, so get in there early, place your order, then sit back and chill... the food will come.

Not open at night, but worthy ofd a mention is Sambane Tea Garden on the Swazi Candles premises. Magic light meals, decadent chocolate brownies and a Sunday breakfast that is kinda of more-ish. You'll probably find me there.

To read more about restaurants in Swaziland try - Swazi Restaurants

To travel or not to travel...in Swaziland

Two events have spawned this blog on travel in Swaziland...

The first was a slide show at the Mountain Inn that I delivered last Saturday to a group from the Natural History Society. It focused on interesting and off-the-beaten track places in Swaziland. The audience was predominantly greying and pretty well on in years. Most had lived in Swaziland for all their lives...and many were seeing these local places for the first time. The thank you's I received, were both encouraging and distressing. Very few of those present had grasped the opportunity to get out there and explore the surrounding Swazi countryside and now for many...by their own admittance... it was already too late.

The second was spending some time this afternoon sharing thoughts with a travelguide author. Not just just your local garden variety, but one who probably, in the sphere of travel belief, ranks right up there with the ancient monks who updated and transcribed the Bible.

These writers do their best to put down all the do's and dont's when visiting a destination...but what was interesting to note was how risk averse these recommendations are slowly becoming and how confined by fear many travellers are.

I've resolved to start a blog that talks about adventure travel...and in this case adventurous travel in Swaziland in particular. Its something I've been lucky enough to have spent hours and hours doing, just from the nature of my job.

There are many voices out there saying be careful of this...and don't do that, I'd like to offer a voice says "it can be done - just do it!" So join me for the journey if you care...its going to be a slow one at best...a few words now and again...but hopefully enough to stimulate discussion, some ideas, a few challenges and a "war story" or two.